Kermit Tesoro

Tesoro’s fascination with cacti and succulents is evident in his work, where spiky embellishments and robust structures evoke the hardy yet alluring nature of these desert plants. His bold shoe designs, featuring towering heels and intricate patterns, push the boundaries of traditional footwear.

Each stage of Tesoro’s design process is a period of extreme creative silence, a calm before the storm, where ideas germinate and take root in his imagination. As he nurtures these concepts to fruition, the anticipation builds until the final reveal erupts with provocative brilliance. His designs are a symphony of the natural world, transforming wearers into walking manifestations of the botanical wonderland he so passionately adores, reflecting the resilience and exotic beauty of both tropical and arid landscapes.

FROM MANILA TO BERLIN

A pioneering Filipino artist originally from Manila and now based in Berlin since 2018, Kermit Tesoro has electrified global fashion with audacious footwear creations, installation art, and fashion designs. Trained at Central Saint Martins University of the Arts London, the Fashion Institute of the Philippines, and the University of the Philippines College of Fine Arts, Tesoro gained prominence with avant-garde shoe designs and organic, abstract body-enhancing silhouettes showcased at Philippine Fashion Week for six consecutive seasons beginning in 2008.

One of his earliest and notably innovative designs was his reinterpretation of the “Bakya,” a traditional Filipino wooden clog featuring towering 9” heels. This creation along with more than 100 designs from other artists were featured in the “Stepping in Pinoy Style” exhibition at the Yuchengco Museum in the Philippines in 2009, a visual conversation highlighting the cultural significance of traditional Filipino footwear.

ICONIC DESIGNS

The skull heel, or “The Seat of Intelligence,” a daring fusion of the macabre and the elegant, underwent an extensive two to three years design process according to Tesoro. The prominent skull on the heel, combined with neutral colors, is reminiscent of Georgia O’Keeffe’s painting “Ram’s Head.” The curvature of the shoes, like the flower on the painting, is a reminder of its conflicting elegance. This design went viral globally, inundating Tesoro’s Facebook inbox with messages. “If it wasn’t for the skull heel, I would be dust. It truly changed my life and opened many doors,” Tesoro reflects.

Following his fourth runway show at Philippine Fashion Week in 2010, Tesoro was approached by Lady Gaga’s team, sparking a collaboration that catapulted him into international recognition. In 2011, Lady Gaga’s stylist, Nicolas Formichetti, commissioned Tesoro and Filipino artist Leeroy New to create an armor dress worn by Lady Gaga on the cover of “Marry the Night.” This collaboration solidified Tesoro’s place in the global high fashion arena.

When discussing the balance between art and wearability, Tesoro explains that his primary focus is on artistic value rather than practicality. For instance, the shoes worn by Lady Gaga on red carpets, while orthopedically correct, were designed to be admired rather than for ease of movement. “If you love a pair of shoes enough, you’ll find a way to wear them,” he notes with humor.

Tesoro recalls another instance when Madonna’s stylist, Bea Åkerlund, invited him to create shoes and clothing for Madonna’s 2011 Super Bowl performance. However, lacking practical considerations, particularly for a dance performance, his designs could not meet the requirements. This experience taught Tesoro the importance of balancing comfort with artistic integrity.

Reflecting on his influences, Tesoro speaks about the profound impact of his mother, especially during the design phase of his 2014 conceptual project, Polypodis. Much to his sorrow, his mother passed away the same year, marking a tumultuous period for Tesoro. “When certain emotions or moods intervene, there is always a transformation,” he reflects. The Polypodis shoes, inspired by cephalopods and the sundew plant, solidified his reputation as an innovator on the global stage. The forms of the tentacles, also reminiscent of Medusa’s hair, evoke the complexity of human (the wearer) emotions and the evolution of thought through personal experiences.

Tesoro’s affinity with horticulture has influenced his designs in both abstract and literal ways. In 2016, he introduced Equilibria, inspired by the Venus flytrap, which blends natural forms with the human foot. The form and coloration of Equilibria clearly reflect a more literal interpretation of the plant; the wearer's foot becomes the trapped fly. This collection was exhibited alongside Polypodis at Lichtenwald Castle in Germany.

SUSTAINABILITY AND CULTURAL ROOTS

His latest capsule collection, *Leucistic Observation*, seamlessly blends avant-garde elements with a modest approach inspired by traditional Filipino values. Named after leucism, a genetic condition in animals characterized by reduced pigmentation, the collection reflects Tesoro's ongoing exploration of subtle yet profound themes. The incognito layering of textures in pale and neutral colors, accented with speckles of gold, silver, and pearl beadwork, reveals itself only upon close inspection. This striking contrast between an initial impression of modesty and the bold character revealed through intricate weaving and embroidery makes the collection irresistibly captivating.

Throughout his career, Tesoro has consistently incorporated sustainable materials such as banana fiber, rattan, bamboo, and recycled plastics, some sourced from beaches. In the Leucistic Observation collection, he emphasizes sustainability by using native Filipino pineapple fiber as the dominant material, along with abaca fiber, sinamay, and repurposed Capiz shells.

Living in Berlin, Tesoro celebrates his Filipino roots through his use of native materials for Leucistic Observation, reflecting his emotional journey and cultural pride. His designs adhere to the Filipino national costume guidelines, ensuring respect for tradition while innovating sensibly. “I was taught in school that there are certain guidelines to follow to avoid bastardizing the national costumes. I wanted to stay true to that philosophy,” Tesoro explains, referring to his handling of the traditionally woven fibers for his garments.

THOUGHT-PROVOKING ART AND FASHION

Tesoro’s audacious work elicits strong reactions, challenges norms, and provokes taboos, touching on themes of sensuality and critical thought. Reflecting on his collaboration with Lady Gaga, which drew criticism from conservative Christian groups and led to his work being labeled as diabolical, he asserts, “Provoking emotion, whether positive or negative, is the goal—to move people to respond.”

When asked which historical figure he would design for, Tesoro enthusiastically mentions Atang de la Rama, a prominent Filipino actress and singer celebrated as the “Queen of Kundiman.” Known for her exceptional performances of traditional Filipino love songs, Atang de la Rama made significant contributions to Philippine theater and cinema during the early to mid-20th century. Tesoro expressed his excitement at interpreting the “bakya,” or traditional Filipino dress, alongside other contemporary designs for her, saying, “I would love to dress her.” In contrast, when asked which celebrity he would like to design for at the MET Gala in New York City, Tesoro promptly replied, “Cate Blanchett! I love her! If given the opportunity to dress her or create something for her, I would be more than okay (hinting at pure bliss in life).”

From his journey through triumphs, challenges, evolution, faced with both adorations and scrutinies, Tesoro advises young aspiring creators with unique visions to stay informed and rooted in their core values. "Being canceled isn't permanent. Identify your creative truth and defend it," Kermit encourages, emphasizing authenticity over fear of judgment in today's cancel culture.

Kermit Tesoro's bold exploration of art and fashion transcends conventions, challenging the fashion world to embrace new perspectives and possibilities. As a Filipino artist, his upbringing in Paete, Laguna, known as "the carving capital of the Philippines" and his late mother's hometown, nurtured his principles of design versatility and innovative material use. This environment, rich with childhood memories and family experiences, instilled in him a deep appreciation for Filipino aesthetic traditions and cultural heritage, particularly the "bakya" culture. His dedication to horticulture and environmental sensibilities enrich his creative vision, while his advocacy for sustainability underscores the ethical foundation of his work. Tesoro's creations epitomize the power of creativity to provoke thought and reshape boundaries, marking him as an avant-garde artist on the global stage who remains genuine and true to his values.