SECOND EDITION September 2024
Lê Ngọc Lâm
Architecture and Haute Couture: A Harmonious Fusion of Vision and Reality
Though architecture and haute couture design may seem worlds apart, they share a profound connection in their ability to transform visionary concepts into tangible masterpieces. Vietnamese designer Lê Ngọc Lâm exemplifies this synergy with his innovative approach to reconstructing fabric, resulting in magnificent creations that embody elegance and sophistication.
LÊ NGỌC LÂM'S VISIONARY CREATIONS
Lê Ngọc Lâm's "Dew Collection" features a stunning red dress that captivates with its ethereal beauty and intricate design. It was modeled by Lê Nguyễn Bảo Ngọc (Miss Intercontinental 2022 Vietnam) at the Vietnam Beauty Fashion Fest (VBFF) All Stars Season 7, which took place on June 23, 2024. This masterpiece draws inspiration from the delicate phenomenon of dew formation in the early morning hours, evoking the image of countless droplets clinging to petals and leaves.
Constructed from an astounding 400 meters of red tulle, the gown showcases perfect symmetry and exemplifies Lê Ngọc Lâms meticulous attention to detail and precision. The creation of this dress reflects collective artisanship, involving multiple skilled craftspeople working in harmony. By translating natural phenomena into wearable art, Lê Ngọc Lâm demonstrates his ability to blend conceptual design with flawless craftsmanship, resulting in a garment that is not only visually arresting but also deeply meaningful.
EARLY LIFE AND PASSION FOR FASHION
Lê Ngọc Lâm, born in 1990 in a small rural area in Southern Vietnam, was raised in a farming family. At just 8 years old, a deep interest in fashion took root, sparked by old fashion magazines that he bought with his own savings and by watching fashion shows on TV. This early fascination became the foundation for his ambition to enter the fashion industry, setting him on a course distinct from his family's farming background. His journey reflects a determination to study hard and pursue his dreams for a better future for himself and his family.
ACADEMIC JOURNEY AND CAREER CHOICE
After being accepted into both Ho Chi Minh City University of Architecture and the University of Economics, Lê Ngọc Lâm made a decisive choice in one day to pursue industrial fine arts at the University of Architecture. After two years of general studies, Lê Ngọc Lâm explained, "I decided to specialize in fashion design. I knew my greatest strength was in spatial thinking, and I applied that to my fashion products to create a unique style that no one else in my class had." He added, "Architecture helps me think about shapes, and fashion allows me to analyze the shapes of the body, enhancing the advantages and structure of a beautiful figure. I seamlessly integrate architecture with fashion in this way."
INNOVATIVE TECHNIQUES AND UNIQUE STYLE
Lê Ngọc Lâm's creations stand out in the fashion world due to his meticulous hand-processing techniques and unique vision. He transforms fabric through dyeing, printing, or deconstructing and reconstructing it to create exclusive pieces. By blending traditional Vietnamese techniques such as chain-stitching, hand embroidery, and weaving with modern design, Lê Ngọc Lâm produces garments that are both culturally rich and contemporary.
His signature works include voluminous dresses made from tulle, organza, and specially woven Vietnamese silk, which are not only environmentally friendly but also offer a high-end appeal. Particularly captivating are his stone and crystal-encrusted gowns, where the strategic placement of crystals on sheer fabric creates a stunning effect. When worn, these gowns are reminiscent of bioluminescent organisms adhered to the woman's body, as if she were emerging from water, glistening like stars in the night sky.
Additionally, Lê Ngọc Lâm's versatility shines through in pieces like the white gown featured above, which is adorned with feathers. In contrast with some of the form-fitting gowns he creates, this dress is romantic, playful, and confident. It evokes memories of Joan Crawford in her iconic Letty Lynton dress from the 1930s.
INTERNATIONAL RECOGNITION AND CHALLENGES
It took Lê Ngọc Lâm a long time to find his own path and voice in design. He learned from major designers worldwide but utilized traditional Vietnamese techniques to create something that looks international yet carries his unique mark as a designer from Vietnam.
Lê Ngọc Lâm has showcased his latest collections at large runways in Vietnam, where his products have been well-received and sold immediately after the shows. However, reaching the international market has been challenging. So far, he has managed to sell his products in China and the United States, though in limited quantities. Most of his international orders come through social media.
Lê Ngọc Lâm's talent has not gone unnoticed internationally. He has been fortunate to work with Miss Universe 2007 Riyo Mori (Japan) and Miss Universe 2011 Leila Lopes (Angola). Most recently, he received an order from Nicki Minaj's stylist for her upcoming tour in September.
CULTURAL INSPIRATION AND FUTURE VISION
Lê Ngọc Lâm draws inspiration from Vietnam's rich cultural heritage, including historical landmarks like the ancient capital of Hue, royal tombs of old dynasties, and the country's long stretches of beaches. These elements serve as the main inspirations for many of his collections, honoring the beauty of Vietnamese culture while remaining unique.
Looking to the future, Lê Ngọc Lâm believes that social media has made the world very accessible. He focuses on creating good and quality products to reach a vast number of potential customers from anywhere, rather than solely relying on beauty pageants or specific events to build his career.
DEDICATION AND FUTURE ASPIRATIONS
Lê Ngọc Lâm imparts valuable advice that he would give to himself: "Stay passionate, work wholeheartedly." He emphasizes, "If you are not satisfied with the present, there are still many opportunities for future growth. You can't know your limits until you explore them." Lam believes that combining fashion with traditional craftsmanship is key to finding a unique path and establishing something that is uniquely Vietnamese—this is the path he follows to secure a place in the competitive market.
While his work designing for international beauty pageant contestants has provided some global exposure, Lê Ngọc Lâm sees this as just a small facet of his broader career vision. He recognizes that beauty pageants are "a good way to connect with the international market," but they are not his ultimate goal. Lê Ngọc Lâm states, "The global population is very large, and pageants represent a very small fraction. I don't focus on them to build my career." Instead, he concentrates on his core values, learning new skills, and working with traditional materials to reach a broader audience. For him, beauty pageants are "just a small passion and do not significantly impact my design career."
LEGACY AND FUTURE IMPACT
Lê Ngọc Lâm's work goes beyond conventional fashion, masterfully blending architectural principles with couture to elevate Vietnamese design on the global stage. Like the concept of "form follows function" in architecture, Lê Ngọc Lâm's designs seamlessly merge aesthetics with purpose, creating garments that are both visually stunning and structurally innovative. His meticulous artistry, deeply rooted in cultural heritage and sustainability, establishes him as a pioneering figure in the fashion world. Lê Ngọc Lâm's journey from rural Vietnam to international acclaim exemplifies discipline and tenacity, inspiring emerging designers worldwide.
As he continues to push boundaries in design, Lê Ngọc Lâm reshapes the fashion landscape and paves the way for a more diverse, sustainable, and culturally rich future. His commitment to Vietnamese traditions and techniques, combined with his innovative vision, serves as a powerful reminder that with talent, dedication, and cultural pride, one can make a lasting impact on the global stage.
Images provided by: Le Ngoc Lam