Michel & Amazonka

In the heart of Ulaanbaatar, a unique fashion narrative unfolds through the creativity and dedication of designer sisters Michel and Amazonka Choigaalaa. Their fashion company, 'Michel Amazonka LLC,' established in 2015, stands as a beacon of Mongolian tradition seamlessly woven into contemporary design.

ROOTED IN TRADITION, BLOSSOMING IN FASHION

Michel and Amazonka's fashion journey began in 2013 when they first showcased their collection, “Unique,” at the Ulaanbaatar Fashion Week. This initial foray into the fashion world laid the foundation for their brand. Both sisters are graduates of “Urlakh Erdem,” a prestigious Mongolian university specializing in fashion design.

Starting with a modest 40 sqm workshop and just five employees, their vision and perseverance have seen the company expand to a 621 sqm factory, a 200 sqm warehouse, and a team of 51 full-time employees. Today, 'Michel Amazonka' operates two stores in the bustling center of Ulaanbaatar, reflecting their growth and success.

INSPIRATION FROM ANCESTRAL MONKS

The Choigaalaa sisters' designs are deeply influenced by their rich heritage. Both their paternal and maternal grandparents were Buddhist monks, wearing traditional robes adorned with intricate ethnic embellishments. "Our mother's father was a monk at his young age. Our father's father was a monk at his late age. They used traditional clothes and furniture with ethnic embellishments," the sisters explained. "We still have some of the clothes that are more than 100 years old. The color variations, patterns, and silhouette are unique to our culture and its people, making us distinctive from other nations." This profound legacy of craftsmanship and design is a cornerstone of Michel and Amazonka's fashion philosophy.

A MOTHER’S EMBROIDERY: CRAFTING A LEGACY

Their mother's passion for embroidery has profoundly shaped Michel and Amazonka's design ethos. Although a doctor by profession, their mother turned to sewing leather products after losing her job in the 1990's. "Our mother is a doctor, but her hobby was to embroider and knit different home items and clothes," they recall. "After the 1990's democratic revolution, both our parents were laid off from their respective jobs, and we had to come up with ways to meet the ends. My mom used to sew leather products to sell, and we kids had to collect leather scraps from the shoe factory garbage area to supply the raw material."

Her meticulous, handmade embroideries, featuring original designs, are a testament to creativity and resilience. "Every embroidery she made is 100% handmade. She came up with the designs herself and skillfully finished them," they share. This heritage is reflected in their work, where embroidered elements frequently embellish their creations. "We use a lot of embroidered elements in our designs because it is something we are familiar with growing up."

CHERISHED MEMORIES, ENDURING INFLUENCE

Childhood memories of their mother’s embroidery, creating beautiful pillows, throws, and table decor, remain a source of inspiration. "When we were young, she made our home beautiful with embroidered pillows, throws, and table decors," they reminisce. "We often saw her doing embroidery while our dad went to Russia to buy stuff to sell in Mongolia. That is how we overcame Mongolia’s political, economic, and social transformation. It was a small family enterprise which inspired us to run a family business. Michel Amazonka is a 100% family-owned company."

DESIGNS FOR EXTREME CLIMATES

Mongolia's extreme climate, ranging from scorching summers to frigid winters, has shaped the nation's clothing culture for millennia. 'Michel Amazonka's' designs reflect this heritage, producing garments suited to these conditions. "As known widely, our climate is considered extreme, fluctuating between very hot to very cold. For thousands of years, our clothing culture has adapted to the local climate," they explained. "Therefore, we produce clothes suitable for the climate. For example, we produce cashmere products that are more in demand from October to May, while light clothes like dresses and streetwear lines are popular during warmer seasons. But the most popular designs all year round is the Mongolian deel and its modern versions."

While traditionally made from silk, modern iterations of the deel incorporate non-silk materials to suit seasonal needs. This balance of tradition and innovation is a hallmark of 'Michel Amazonka’s' design philosophy.

REVITALIZING MONGOLIAN HERITAGE

The sisters are committed to modernizing Mongolian clothing while preserving its roots. Traditional elements such as embroidery, appliqué, and pins are seamlessly integrated into contemporary designs. "We always tried to modernize Mongolian clothing to make them more suitable with today’s fashion trend but we do not forget our roots," they said. "From our design, you can see traditional elements in forms of embroidery, applique, and pins. It is hard to say we produce traditional deel in its ancient form. Because we often change the silhouette to make it suitable for modern activities such as receptions, ceremonies, parties, business meetings, video clips, and advertisement. The recent Olympic uniform is a modernized version of Mongolian Deel."

URBAN INSPIRATIONS AND GLOBAL APPEAL

Ulaanbaatar, with its rapid development and diverse events, is a constant source of inspiration. "Mongolia is developing and we have different kinds of events happening in Ulaanbaatar," they noted. "These events require different dress codes and Mongolians are choosing to wear Mongolian clothes more and more. Therefore designers are accommodating this demand with modern versions."

Their designs appeal to both local and international audiences by merging traditional deel-making techniques with European tailoring. "Deel has its own techniques to make and we added a new touch to it with European tailoring techniques. So the designs became slimmer, minimal, body shaping, and modern," they said. "We have expat customers who wish to wear traditional clothes for local diplomatic and casual events. We call it Deel Dress and it is popular."

CULTURAL MISUNDERSTANDINGS AND CREATIVE BREAKTHROUGHS

Cultural misunderstandings can sometimes lead to unexpected creative breakthroughs. "We would say the Paris 2024 Olympic uniform for Team Mongolia is making a big buzz abroad," they remarked. "Even though the world is not familiar with our clothes, they attracted many people around the world. We received many requests to buy the uniform."

Locally, the reception was mixed. "Mongolian audience expressed that this uniform was too fancy and had too many ethnic elements. Some expressed that we should have made more modern athleisure outfits. This was unexpected."

INCORPORATING THE NOMADIC LIFESTYLE

Looking ahead, Michel and Amazonka aspire to incorporate Mongolia’s nomadic lifestyle into their fashion work. "This is something we would like to incorporate into our work in the future with proper research," they said. "During celebrations like Naadam, Tsagaan Sar, and family gatherings, Mongolians wear their finest deels and travel many kilometers to meet and greet their relatives and friends. Maybe this is the traveling fashion of Mongolians. In this sense, we custom make deels for our customers."

OVERCOMING MATERIAL CHALLENGES

Sourcing materials and producing clothing in Mongolia poses significant challenges. The lack of local fabric factories means that most materials are imported from China, Korea, and other countries. Despite these hurdles, Michel and Amazonka have successfully leveraged local resources like cashmere to create unique, high-quality garments that honor their heritage while appealing to contemporary tastes. "In Mongolia, we do not have big or small fabric factories that meet our demand," they explained. "However, we can find cashmere and wool threads and create some experimental fabrics with them. Other materials are all imported from China, Korea, and other countries. We have to travel abroad several times a year to choose fabrics for our designs."

A LEGACY WOVEN INTO THE GLOBAL FABRIC

Michel and Amazonka’s journey from a modest workshop to the global fashion stage is a testament to the profound influence of their mother’s meticulous embroidery and the rich legacy of their monastic grandparents. Their designs are not merely fashion statements but woven narratives of resilience, creativity, and cultural pride. By drawing deeply from their heritage and infusing it with modern aesthetics, they have created a unique brand that resonates worldwide. The sisters stand as ambassadors of Mongolian culture, embodying the spirit of their ancestors and the innovative vigor of contemporary Mongolia, as they continue to bring their rich, traditional artistry to the global spotlight.

Their mother’s legacy is the thread that runs through every garment they create, a symbol of the unwavering strength and artistic brilliance that has shaped their journey. Her dedication to craftsmanship and ability to transform adversity into beauty have profoundly influenced Michel and Amazonka. This maternal inspiration is evident in their intricate designs and the deep respect they hold for their cultural roots. As they weave Mongolia’s rich heritage into the fabric of global fashion, Michel and Amazonka honor their mother’s enduring legacy, ensuring that the spirit of their ancestors continues to shine brightly on the world stage.