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Michael Cho

Elegance in Form: Michael Cho at Amsale

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Nguyễn Mahn Lan

Images provided by Michael Cho

Fluid Gold Journal
A gown is more than a garment—it is a masterpiece of art, a wearable image that reflects the person for whom it was created. In each fold of silk, satin, tulle, or lace, and every meticulously placed bead, lies an intimate conversation: a reflection of their life, their character, and a quiet dream waiting to be revealed. It becomes a love letter from the visionary who transforms momentary thoughts into a tangible, breathtaking reality—one that endures, expressing a vision that complements both creator and muse.

Michael Cho, Design Director of bridal and evening gowns at the acclaimed New York City fashion house Amsale, is a true visionary in modern couture. His work elevates clothing into meticulously crafted dreams for discerning brides and those attending life’s most formal occasions. To meet and collaborate with him is to enter a realm of refined artistry—where imagination, technique, and intention converge to create garments that leave a lasting impression. 


THE ARCHITECTURE OF COUTURE 


An important influence on Cho’s design process is the close relationship between architecture and fashion. “We use different materials,” he explains, “but ultimately we both use texture and shapes to tell our ‘stories.’ Understanding construction to properly execute a design is paramount in both.” He points to the challenge of creating a single seam gown as an example, noting it requires profound technical knowledge of how fabric drapes on the body. “Having the technical knowledge to manipulate fabric and appropriately construct a garment is what really separates the masters from amateurs.” 


EMOTION AT THE HEART OF DESIGN


For Cho, design is rooted in storytelling, particularly through emotion. When facing creative blocks, he returns to the basics, asking himself, “What am I trying to convey?” His ultimate goal is to create work with an emotional core: “Without an emotional core, I find that the story lacks depth and meaning and thereby becomes just another empty ‘pretty’ piece.” The word “incandescent” embodies this approach—moments of gentle glow and enchanting warmth that his work aims to capture and share. Born in Atlanta, Georgia, and raised primarily in New York City, Cho is a Korean American whose family background plays a significant role in his perspective. “My parents are originally from South Korea,” he shares, “and I am the youngest of three children.” His cultural heritage, combined with New York City’s diverse atmosphere, shaped his outlook and artistic sensibility. 


ROOTS AND INFLUENCES 


His interest in fashion began early. “I first started experimenting with fashion design as far back as middle school,” he recalls. “I loved to mix and match different clothing items with accessories to make unique looks.” In high school, he explored garment deconstruction, creating “avant-garde” pieces that fueled both inspiration and fun. After graduating from Parsons School of Design with a Bachelor of Fine Arts, majoring in fashion design, Cho entered the industry but soon found the corporate environment limiting. “That moment came when I realized I was no longer on the path I once yearned for,” he reflects. Taking a risk, Cho left to pursue his artistic voice, resulting in his first two personal collections: The Black Iris and The Leucite’s Copse. These works combined couture techniques with fantastical, story-driven design and solidified his future in evening and bridal wear. 


A COSMOPOLITAN PHILOSOPHY: INSPIRATIONS FROM AROUND THE WORLD 


Cho’s design philosophy is deeply influenced by the cultural melting pot that is New York City. “There is a freedom here to explore varied facets of numerous cultures,” he explains. This cosmopolitan spirit pairs with the city’s modern elegance in what he calls “modern fantasticism.” Additionally, his admiration for Japanese and Icelandic aesthetics further informs his work. Japanese design is defined by minimalism, precision, and respect for form—traits that echo in Cho’s preference for clean lines and meticulous detail. The Japanese value of monozukuri, or craftsmanship with soul, resonates deeply with his couture philosophy. Meanwhile, Iceland’s raw, ethereal beauty—its volcanic terrain, glassy fjords, and quiet isolation—inspires a kind of emotional clarity. “The sweeping landscapes and quiet remote locations I visited were incredibly moving,” he says. “You could say my time in Iceland was truly ‘incandescent.’” 


THE MEANING OF THE BRIDAL GOWN 


Within bridal fashion, Cho challenges common misconceptions. “Many believe all bridal gowns are ‘the same’ or ‘lesser than’ evening gowns because they’re primarily white,” he says. In reality, a bridal gown is never just a garment—it carries profound symbolic weight. Across both Asian and Western cultures, the wedding dress is a vessel for memory and meaning. It does not merely signify the ceremony, but also the years, decisions, and shared experiences that have led a couple to that singular moment. The gown becomes a deeply personal artifact—one that speaks to family, cultural tradition, and the emotional arc of a relationship. Cho emphasizes that designing for such a moment demands precision, respect, and emotional awareness. Because bridal design offers no camouflage in bold color or embellishment, its craftsmanship must be exacting. He encourages brides to slow down, reject the pressure of instant gratification, and honor the significance of the dress by investing in a thoughtfully made, custom-fitted piece that will reflect the depth of their commitment. 


PERSONAL TOUCHES: HONORING STORIES THROUGH DESIGN 


Cho’s sensitivity to personal stories is evident in his work. He recalls a client who wanted to honor her late father on her wedding day. “I incorporated a small pocket on the left chest, near the heart, to hold a locket pendant with her father’s picture,” he says. “It allowed her to keep him close to her heart on her special day.” Though technology plays a role in fashion today, Cho approaches it with measured respect. “Technology is just another tool in the toolbox,” he says. “I am still a supporter of analog tools, which may be considered ‘old fashioned’ by some.” He warns against over reliance on technology, as valuable craftsmanship knowledge risks being lost with younger designers depending too much on digital methods. 


ADVICE FOR ASPIRING DESIGNERS 


To aspiring designers, Cho offers practical and heartfelt advice: “You are surrounded by a deluge of content and opinions, which can be overwhelming. It’s easy to become burnt out or stray from your vision.” He urges young creatives to focus on their unique voice rather than chasing trends or external pressures. “Keep your ego in check, recognize your weaknesses, and strive to better yourself. Never stop creating and pushing boundaries.” As Cho continues to blend tradition and innovation, structure and softness, his work serves as a quiet but powerful reminder: in an industry often fixated on spectacle, it is the emotional core—the story behind the gown—that truly endures.

Images provided by Michael Cho

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