Erica Paredes

Reyna's Culinary Journey

"I built the community first; then the space followed." This is the guiding principle Erica Paredes followed to secure her success with her Parisian restaurant, Reyna.

From her bright eyes, her friendly and charismatic smile, to her artistic floral arm tattoo, one has the impression that she is an expressive, creative, and confident woman. Erica Paredes is a celebrated culinary steward and the owner of Reyna in Paris. A Filipina, she began her career in publications, particularly in the fashion and beauty arenas. Her global journey spans the Philippines, Australia, Great Britain—where she studied in London—and now Paris, where she honed her culinary skills at Le Cordon Bleu. Paris was a serendipitous stop that soon felt like home, aligning perfectly with her vibrant personality.

The journey to the success of Reyna, and thus her success, was "organic yet purposeful," as Erica described it. She worked at various restaurants, including an internship at a Michelin-rated establishment. For Erica, climbing the ladder while working for someone else was never her goal. She knew she wanted her own space to pursue her second career. She sought out experiences in challenging kitchens to observe operations and learn how to manage her own place.

Erica initiated a supper club, her brilliant idea involving hosting a three-course meal and a glass of wine for ten random guests at her apartment. Utilizing social media platforms like Facebook and Instagram, she announced the date of the supper and the theme for the evening. She never revealed the menu in advance, adding an element of surprise to the dining experience; however, she always asked guests for any dietary restrictions. From her kitchen, equipped with a professional table and open to the dining room with a single table, Erica delivered what would become the essence of her restaurant, Reyna. Her aim was to provide her guests with an exceptional experience in a communal setup, reminiscent of the Filipino tradition of salo-salo, or togetherness.

Opportunities for pop-up kitchens soon came her way. She was offered the chance to take over a restaurant kitchen for varying periods, akin to a residency. These stints ranged from one week to two weeks, with the longest being four months.

During the Covid pandemic, when the food industry was heavily impacted and restaurants were closing, it was a time of difficulty and self-questioning. However, this did not deter Erica. According to her, "In times of despair and hardship, it's time to find solutions and answers to get to the next step." During the pandemic, when many restaurants remained closed, Erica resumed cooking in her kitchen for takeout. Through her connections, she found a restaurant kitchen where she could produce her food using professional equipment and hired two people with scooters to handle deliveries. Erica worked throughout the rest of the pandemic. When restaurants began reopening, she resumed her pop-up kitchens until she eventually opened Reyna two years ago.

Erica explains that Reyna is an homage to her late maternal grandmother and to the women who nurtured her growing up in the Philippines. It became evident during this interview how close Erica is to her family when she described her relationships with the women in her family. "I love that I come from a lineage with a grandmother who is very caring and another grandmother who is a badass." When asked how her Filipino upbringing influences her work, Erica explained that it shapes her thinking and the way she treats people. This explains the respect she receives from her Reyna team and the patrons who continuously support the restaurant. "You can be the best in any field, but if nobody likes to work with you, you will not get far." It is important for her to treat people with respect and maintain her passion for what she does. Erica describes her kitchen as democratic, where her sous chefs can make suggestions, test them out, and proceed with them if they meet Reyna’s culinary standards.

Running a restaurant in Paris poses certain difficulties due to cultural differences. Compared to Manila, where staffing is more accessible, labor in Paris is very expensive, resulting in Erica taking on more responsibilities than just cooking. For instance, if there is a plumbing problem, she has to fix it herself. Besides being creative, personable, headstrong, and hardworking, one of Erica’s biggest strengths is her ability to recognize people who can help her bring her goals and ideas to fruition.

As a woman, Erica has proven herself in the culinary arena through hard work. However, she is not one to settle after a single positive publication about Reyna. “Staying consistent and relevant in Paris is very difficult because there is always a new place opening up,” Erica explains. Reyna is celebrating its two-year anniversary, a testament to her work's relevance in Paris.

When asked for advice to our readers, Erica states, “Success is moving forward, reaching small goals to get to the big goals.” Investing in oneself is significant, but having the discipline to work hard is mandatory. It is not enough to recognize one’s passion because “there is no red carpet that will be rolled out for you.” She describes her journey to success as encountering swamps and quicksand and requiring her to climb mountains. Similar to what we see on social media, people only post the best parts of their lives, even though their struggles are real. Hardship, however, allows one to use parts of the brain that would otherwise remain dormant. “Don’t be afraid of hardship, to be uncomfortable, and to exercise creativity,” she adds. Surrounding oneself with key individuals is essential to achieve one’s goals and to support one’s mental health.

“I have endless ideas I want to execute. If it fails, it fails. At least you are trying to do it. Find your strengths and weaknesses, and when you find your weaknesses, find people to fill those gaps.”

Photo credits: Portrait and restaurant by Paolo Coumans | Food by Erica Paredes